Every surfer dreams of surfing the perfect wave. I’ve been surfing since 1965 and I have fortunately surfed in perfect conditions a number of times.

The first time was in 1967 where I surfed in overhead surf while living on Long Island. The wind was blowing offshore, the eater was relatively warm, the waves were hollow and spitting and absolutely perfect. I luckily scored around four waves during my session where I was pitted deep in a left-handed barrel for quite some time before being spitted out onto the shoulder screaming my lungs out in pure rapture.

Since that time, while never having a session where I scored so many tube rides, non the less I have enjoyed scores of memorable sessions from Maine to Florida, Texas, California and Hawaii.

One thing most surfers realize is that such days as mentioned above are few and far between. Some days one can spend an entire session trying desperately to score at least one good ride as the conditions are poor. other days when the conditions are truly magical one can score hands full of rides.

Yet in either case, at least for me, it’s more about communing with nature, being in the moment, testing my endurance and skills and enjoying the dance of surfing.

Despite my continual advancing of age, I have been able to enjoy the sport for over sixty years. Sadly, due in part to a recent bout with prostate cancer as well as an impacted auto-immune system I had considered giving up the sport I love which has given me so much joy and inner peace and strength.

But what has impacted my willingness to continue has more to do with the state of the ocean itself. More and more beaches have been closed due to poor ocean quality, red tides, flesh eating bacteria, fecal matter and toxins.

For years I have kept a journal of my surf sessions and when recently re-reading the entries I realized just how many times in recent years I had suffered mouth, sinus and intestinal infections after a session which lasted for quite some time afterwards.

This past week I decided to boogie-board at my home break in Jacksonville Beach. Even though the water looked dirty, since the water temperature was around sixty degrees I figured I would not get sick. Yet here I am a week later still feeling the effects of an infection I picked up. It has forced me to once again consider giving up the sport for good.

Here is where wave pools enter the discussion. As you may have read, they are popping up all over the planet, They offer the opportunity to surf in what is considered clean water and in perfect conditions.

Who wouldn’t jump at the chance to surf in such conditions?

I’m not writing this to disparage wave pools. To the contrary they are great and I honestly wouldn’t mind having the opportunity to try one out.

About ten years ago some of my buddies decided to head to Orlando to surf at the wave pool at WDW. They said that for $150 or so each we would be guaranteed ten waves each during our session. As the cost at the time was prohibitive for me, I passed on the opportunity. I figured that so what, I could still paddle out into the ocean anyway.

So while wave pools are cool, at the same time surfing in them isn’t cheap. Many are being set up like country clubs where you have to buy a membership. Others are set up like resorts where you have to be staying there in order to use them. Certainly not everyone can afford to do enjoy one of those.

And while surfing in perfect conditions is desirable to any surfer, could there be a time where surfing pretty much the same wave all of the time could get boring.

They certainly would be desirable for those who like to have instant gratification. Yet for me, I liked the idea of heading to the beach not knowing exactly how the conditions are and having to work for each wave by figuring it all out as well as being out with my buddies sharing in the camaraderie of the day.

My other concern relative to wave pools is if this means we are giving up on keeping our oceans safe for the creatures who live within them as well as for those who play in them. I certainly hope not.

I have devoted many years of my life volunteering with ocean related organizations and hope the efforts of all of us who looked to protect our oceans, waves and beaches have not been in vein.

I’m also concerned over how much of the local water supplies will be negatively impacted by these wave pools. They certainly require a great deal of it and many areas are already struggling with water issues.

So while yes wave pools in and of themselves are great I hope we don’t lose what has been the heart and soul of surfing or give up on our oceans in the process.

Thanks for checking in this week.

Aloha, Paul