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Category Archives: Uncategorized
On giving back
I’ve believed for quite some time that surfing literally saved my life. having grown up in a highly dysfunctional and sometimes violent home situation, I developed a great many phobias and a very low self esteem. I have also come … Continue reading
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How a Surfing Safari is like Writing
Have you ever gone on a Surfing Safari or any spur of the moment trip for that matter? I have and if you’re like me you probably didn’t do a great deal of planning for it other than to have … Continue reading
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Do Surfers read? I sure hope so
I’ve been told that part of the problem with writing novels that have a surfing theme is that few surfers really read much. They believe they would rather look at pictures and videos of surfing and only read the captions … Continue reading
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Overcome your fears to have more fun
As far as overcoming fears is concerned, I know what I’m talking about. When I was young I had tons of them and there are some I still retain all these years later. One of my biggest fears was of … Continue reading
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Is it more about the destination or the journey
I know setting goals and having a destination is important. If we didn’t we might just drift aimlessly through life with no sense of direction. And I’m not talking about taking a trip because sometimes it’s fun to just strike … Continue reading
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Are we in good hands with the youunger generation? I would like to thinks so
One of the things I like best is working with the younger generation. Whether it be through teaching them surfing or snowboarding, teaching them about the environment or just watching them do what they do, I simply just like being … Continue reading
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Nonconformity
The concept of nonconformity or being a nonconformist first arose relative to persons who did not conform with the principals of the Anglican Church. These days, a nonconformist is anyone who does not conform with the norms of society. When … Continue reading
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Below is the review of the Nonconformist in the march issue of Surfing magazine. I am really stoked about it. In one way or another, all surfers are non-conformists. Waveriding might not carry the same anti-establishment stigma it did in … Continue reading
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The Cell Free Surf Zone
The following is a brief piece I wrote about a year and a half ago that I hoped would be published but never was. In thinking about it recently I came to realize just how fast technology is growing and … Continue reading
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local vs townie
I have always heard a lot of griping about locals only and “townies go home” epithets and while I understand the thought process to a degree it still disturbs me. To a degree, whether we like it or not, we … Continue reading
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